After several days of hauling loads of supplies down to the boat, it's finally time to depart; but not before stowing away the last load. Clothing and supplies seem to be sitting everywhere, but eventually everything is stowed away. We depart the Narrows Marina at 10:35a to catch the ebb current through the Tacoma Narrows. Although it is a high overcast, it is partly sunny. The sea is calm. Cruising couldn't be better. The original plan was to overnight in Langley Boat Harbor. Cruising conditions were so good, however, that after reaching

Langley, we decided to go on to Cornet Bay at the north end of Whidbey Island, arriving at 6:45p. Instead of tying up at the State Park dock, we opted for the Deception Pass Marina so we would have the comfort of electricity. Along the way here, we spotted porpoise heading south in Saratoga Passage. Coming around Strawberry Point in Skagit Bay, the Budweiser blimp flew (floated?) overhead, probably bound for Bellingham.

Fuel price in the Deception Pass Marina was $2.00 per gallon. After taking on 79.0 gallons, we departed at 10:35a and headed out through Deception Pass with about 6 knots ebb current. The passage was uneventful except for the irregularities of the current that would jostle us from side to side a bit. The crossing of Rosario Strait was dead calm. What a wonderful change from past trips. Hope it is this smooth coming home. Spotted about six other pleasure boats in Rosario Strait. Our plan today was to head for West Sound Marina, since we

have never been there before and wanted to see the facilities. However, we found the guest moorage to be rather limited with very few amenities. Fuel price here was a whopping $2.55 per gallon. This place looked like no fun, so we headed for Deer Harbor Marina where there are better guest attractions and more other boaters to talk to. Fuel price in Deer Harbor Marina was $2.12 per gallon. We met a nice couple from Saltspring Island aboard the "Miss Debby", a converted old fishing trawler.

We woke up this morning to a light rain, but no wind. The plan for today was Sucia Island, but because high winds are predicted for this afternoon, we decided to cross over to Bedwell Harbour before the winds come up. It was a wonderfully smooth crossing. In order to clear Canada, we had to either eat or give up the two apples we had aboard. So we ate them and submitted the apple cores for disposal. After clearing customs we decided to head to Fulford Harbour, which the people aboard the Miss Debby

recommended so highly. Arriving at the outer harbour dock, we proceeded to explore the village of Fulford Harbour. The people aboard the Miss Debby preferred small towns and this was indeed a small place; a small cafe, small grocery store, coffee shop and gas station. The principal reason for this village is probably the ferry landing from Swartz Bay.

We decided to spend the night here, so moved over to the inner harbour at the Fulford Harbour Marina. Moorage here was $24 CDN. Fuel is 88¢ CDN per liter.

There were some sharp wind gusts this morning, but the weather reports on Channel 3 reported only light winds near Nanaimo. So, it was with some trepidation that we left Fulford Harbour. However, we never encountered any heavy seas. Further north it became dead calm. We entered Dodd Narrows going with about 2 knots flood current. Fuel at the Nanaimo Petro-Canada fuel dock was 83.9¢ CDN per liter, which is equivalent to $2.00 USD per gallon. Moorage at the inner harbour was $28.90 CDN including electricity.

Got up at 5:00a to make an early morning crossing of the Strait of Georgia. Dead calm in Nanaimo inner harbour this morning. Whiskey Golf (WG) is active beginning at 7:00a, so we had to transit by the Ballenas Islands. Mostly calm crossing. Our original destination this day was for Pender Harbour, however, at Upwood Point (south tip of Texada Island) we decided to change course to Ballet Bay and anchor-out overnight. What a wonderful crossing.

There were two other boats in Ballet Bay as we arrived, but one was just leaving and we took it's spot. Dropped the anchor and did a stern-to tie. Another boat pulled in later in the afternoon. All three of us had shore ties. It was dead calm all night.

Pulled out of Ballet Bay at 7:40a and out into Malaspina Strait where the water was dead calm. Sunny and a few light high clouds. What a beautiful day for cruising! About a one-inch ripple after passing Grief Point. To the west of us we see the snow capped peaks on Vancouver Island. Rounding Sarah Point at 12:15p. Arrived Refuge Cove at 12:50p. Plenty of room. Fuel price here is 89¢ CDN per liter.

The Refuge Cove hamburger stand opened today. We had a hamburger and fries for lunch before pulling out. Left Refuge Cove at 12:40p to make 3:10p slack before ebb in Gillard Pass (Big Bay). Arrived Blind Channel at 5:05p. $28.05 for moorage plus $9.50 for electricity. Had a fine dinner in the restaurant.

Refuel before leaving Blind Channel, 60gal * 3.785=227.1 liters @ 89¢ CDN per liter. Back to Big Bay. Arrive Big Bay at 3:10p moving with a 4.5 knot flow through Gillard Pass. Quite warm here. The temperature inside the boat with a comfortable breeze was 80°F. Moorage was $26.40 CDN. Could not reach the nearest electric outlet.

Out of Big Bay at noon. Arrive Church House @1:20p, but the dock, what was left of it, was occupied by a fishing boat. So we anchored out behind Bartlet Islet. Need to wait 3 hours until slack in Hole In The Wall. Out of Hole In The Wall @ 5:00p. Stopped at a garbage float, $2.00 CDN per small bag. Entered Octopus Islands and anchored with a stern-to tie. Three other boats in our small bay.

Need to be out of here tomorrow by 5:00a to get ahead of max ebb current in rapids in Okisollo Channel.

Up anchor at 4:50a and out of Octopus Islands, out Okisollo Channel and into Discovery Passage. We learned that gale force winds are predicted this afternoon on Johnstone Strait. So we decided to look for shelter and picked Otter Cove on Vancouver Island, just south of Chatham Point, and dropped the anchor. One other boat, the Saint Jude, was anchored here. Secure at anchor by 6:25a.

Things looked slightly better at 7:45a so we decided to make a run for Blind Channel. Arrived Blind Channel without difficulty at 8:40a. Took on an additional 37.0 gallons of fuel. A lot of big boats here today.

Out of Blind Channel at 8:05a to make the 9:57a slack before flood in Whirlpool Rapids. Followed along with the ebb current in Greene Point Rapids (Cordero Channel) and entered Whirlpool Rapids @ 9:38a going with a 1.8 knot ebb current. It was an easy passage. Entered Forward Harbour and dropped anchor in Douglas Bay @ 9:55a.

On the way here, the "head" stopped working. The motor would not run. It was too rough to troubleshoot it along the way, but after getting secured at anchor we found that it had a failed fuse. There were no signs that the fuse was blown, but it just had no continuity. Replaced it with another 30A fuse and the "head" was back in business, averting a real "emergency".

Up anchor in Forward Harbour @ 7:00a after a quiet night. There were 18 boats anchored in Douglas Bay. More than half of these boats were out of here by the time we got underway. Our route takes us out Sunderland Channel and into Johnstone Strait. Gale force southeasterly winds are predicted on Johnstone Strait later this afternoon, so we want to get out of the Strait as soon as possible. However, at this time the winds are very light to dead calm. About two miles before reaching the Broken Islands, where we turn into Havannah Channel, it was dead calm. We could have opened up the throttle and made 16 to 18 knots, but it really isn't necessary to make better time.

Saw a black bear in Chatham Channel. Through the Blow Hole @ 10:42a and pulled into Lagoon Cove Marina at 10:50a. Met Larry the caretaker and wharfinger, who lives aboard the Christina. He invited us to happy hour at 5:00p, where everyone brings hors d'oeuvres.

Refueled at Lagoon Cove Marina, 30 liters AFT tank, 294 liters FWD tank @ 79.9¢ CDN per liter. Switch to FWD tank. Arrive Potts Lagoon and dropped anchor @ 11:50a. Very quiet here overnight.

Start engine @ 8:00a. Sky is overcast, but there is no wind, at least here in Potts Lagoon. Up anchor @ 8:15a for Echo Bay. Arrived Echo Bay @ 10:55a after a beautifully smooth crossing of Knight Inlet. Stocked up on groceries, then over to Windsong Sea Village for the bakery, only to find that the bakery was gone. The weather had turned beautiful, so we wanted to continue cruising. So we decided to head for Shawl Bay since we had never been there before. Arrived @ 2:30p. Moorage was 55¢ per foot plus $10 CDN for 30A power, for a total of $28.15. It turned out to be an utterly delightful place, with a large canopy covered common area float, where a complementary pancake breakfast is served in the morning. There is a store, laundry and showers, plus well protected moorage. Nice quiet night.

A pancake breakfast under the canopy was included in the price of moorage. You bring your own plate, knife, fork and coffee cup. It was nice talking to the other boaters over breakfast.

Changed the engine oil and filter and left Shawl Bay at 12:05p. heading for Greenway Sound. Arrived Greenway Sound @ 1:30p. Made reservations for dinner at 6:30p. Moorage was $24.80 CDN and 30A power was $15.00 CDN.

I hiked up to Broughton Lake. It was about an hour round trip. After returning to the boat, I met Roy Christenson whom I knew through Boeing. Gloria and I had dinner in the Greenway Sound restaurant and sat with Roy and his wife. The dinner was excellent.

Off the dock in Greenway Sound Resort at 11:15a. and out of Greenway Sound into Sutlej Channel and around Stackhouse Island through Sharp Pass. Overcast with low clouds and almost foggy. Both before passing Stackhouse Island, and again after, we can see up into Kingcome Inlet, but it is not as beautiful today as it was yesterday in the sun. After passing the entrance to Kingcome Inlet, we enter Penphrase Passage and pass the entrance to Simoom Sound. Continuing east, we pass the magnificent stone cliffs just after Stone Sea Bluff and we enter into Tribune Channel. A number of other boats are also passing this way in both directions. The entrance to Kwatsi Bay is in sight about five nautical miles ahead, but we detoured over to the north side of the channel just west of Watson Bay to photograph the waterfall. The solid rock mountains seem to be pushed up out of the bowels of the earth. Arrived at Kwatsi Bay Moorage 2:25p. Moorage was 45¢ per foot. No electric, but plenty of good water. Two other boats were here. The owner invited everyone to a pot-luck dinner. We made scalloped potatoes and also served sliced pickles and assorted nuts.

Leave Kwatsi Bay @ 10:00a. It was smooth cruising through Tribune Channel. Approaching Trafford Point we yielded to an open sailing vessel with two masts and a crew of oarsmen. They were tacking north. This may have been the same vessel and crew that we saw near Bedwell harbour, 14 days ago. Rounding Trafford Point, we headed behind Kumlah Island where we saw six kayaks. Then for scenic value, we cruised through Sargeaunt Passage. Leaving Sargeaunt Passage, we crossed Knight Inlet heading for White Nob Point on Minstrel Island. The two to three foot chop on Knight Inlet was from the wind coming up the inlet, but the QE Too did nicely. Arrived Lagoon Cove @ 1:15p. and refueled FWD tank 73.7 gal. (279.1 liters). Reset flowmeter. Remain on FWD tank. Moved off of the fuel dock to overnight moorage @ 1:45p.

The 110-foot "Black Tie" was at the dock in Lagoon Cove. Quite a ship! That evening, another mega-yacht, the "Lady M" anchored in the lagoon. It was from Belize City. It must have been 150-feet or longer.

Leave Lagoon Cove @ 6:00a. to go with the current in Chatham Channel and also to get through Johnstone Strait before the predicted high winds this afternoon. It was easy going. We sped up to 14 knots in Johnstone Strait and made up to 16 knots with the current. Since the going was so good, we decided to go all the way to Blind Channel. Arrived Blind Channel @ 9:48a. Refueled 208.3 liters (55.0 gal. US). Overnight in Blind Channel Resort Marina. Stocked up on groceries in the store.

Out of Blind Channel @ 8:10a. Calm and mostly clear. The view into Frederick Arm inspired the name of this years cruise, "Magnificent Mountains and Intriguing Passages".

Went through Gillard Pass with 2.6 knots current and an easy passage through Yuculta Rapids. Going south in Calm Channel, the day was so beautiful, we decided to cruise into Toba Inlet. The views were spectacular. Got some waterfall pictures and then returned through Waddington Channel and into Prideaux Haven at 4:45p. Anchored in Melanie Cove and secure with a shore tie at 5:15p. There were about 25 boats in Prideaux Haven plus another 8 boats, counting us, in Melanie Cove. Coming into Prideaux Haven, we spotted a 40-foot Cruise-A-Home. It turned out to be the Paysay II, with Bob and Jean Strode of the Houseboat Yacht Club who were also in Nanaimo when we were there. Two more cruisers came into Melanie Cove at 7:30p. A quiet night.

Slept in until 9:00a. Up anchor in Melanie Cove @ 10:53a. Arrived Refuge Cove @ 12:20p. Added 150 liters to the FWD tank and switched to AFT tank. Fuel was 83¢ CDN per liter (1¢ reduction after 100 liters). Very crowded here. Decided to just get groceries and ice and go on to Squirrel Cove. Also dropped off garbage at the garbage float for $5.00 CDN. Arrived Squirrel Cove @ 2:00p and set anchor by 2:15p.

Up at 5:30a. after a quiet night. Up anchor @ 6:05a. Mostly smooth cruising, except a little heavier from Cape Cockburn on due to a northwesterly wind. High winds are predicted this afternoon. Passing Cape Cockburn @ 11:20a. Arrived Pender Harbour, Fisherman's Resort and Marina @ 12:26p.

Off the dock from Wally's Fisherman's Resort and Marina in Pender Harbour at 6:25a., for an early crossing of Georgia Strait. WG was not active today, so we went straight across. Pushed the boat up to 13.9 knots for a quick crossing. As we were entering Departure Bay, we got a call on the cell phone asking to speak to the Captain. At first, I thought it was the harbormaster trying to tell me I was going too fast or something. But then I wondered how the harbormaster would know our cell phone number. Instead, it turned out to be a friend from England, Brian Perry, calling from Seattle.

He got the cell phone number from our son, Philip. All in all, it was quite a surprise just as I was maneuvering around the entrance buoys. Arrived Nanaimo Brechin Point Esso Fuel Dock @ 9:05a. Refilled FWD tank 202.8 liters and AFT tank 141.2 liters @ 79.3¢ CDN per liter. Reset flowmeter and remained on FWD tank. Arrived at the Inner Harbour @ 9:50a.

About 1:00p. we had a surprise visit from Marv Elbon of the "Puka Kai". He is cruising with the "Skookum" (Dave & Jan Wilson), "Klettatat" (Ken & Karen Klett), and the "Serenity" (Ron Ostrowski). They arrived from Telegraph Harbour and are on their way north, probably Sullivan Bay.

Off the dock on Nanaimo Inner Harbour @ 6:45a. to make the end of ebb through Dodd Narrows. About five or six other boats heading for Dodd Narrows too. The water was quite smooth, so I plotted the course down Trincomali Channel. Along the way, the holding tank discharge pump electric motor failed. Re-routed the discharge hose to bypass the MSD to use the hand pump. In the last hour, some stiff southerly wind came up. Arrived Ganges Marina @11:15a.

Left Ganges @ 7:05a. to get out before the afternoon winds built up. Started out by heading for Roche Harbor, but at Moresby Island we decided to go to Sidney instead. Arrived Port of Sidney @ 9:30a. Ordered a replacement motor for the MSD discharge pump.

Picked up a replacement motor for the discharge pump, $205 USD equivalent. Left Port of Sidney @ 9:55a. Installed the new motor on the way to Roche Harbor. Arrived Roche Harbor US Customs @11:25a. Out of Roche Harbor @ 11:55a. Switch to AFT tank @ 54.8 gal. Arrived Blakely Island Marina @ 2:05p. Turned out to be a beautiful sunny day.

Left Blakely Island Marina @ 7:45a. Through Deception Pass @ 9:42a. Arrived Deception Pass Marina @ 10:00a. Refueled Aft tank 16.3 gal. FWD tank 57.4 gal. @ $1.95 per gal. Off the fuel dock @ 10:25a. Switch to FWD tank. Over to the park pump-out float to pump out the holding tank. Arrived Deception Pass State Park Cornet Bay moorage @ 10:40a.

Day 27 - Sat. 7/21/01, Cornet Bay to Langley, 27.4nm

Up at 8:00AM. Untied and left Langley Boat Harbor @ 9:00AM. Arrived Poulsbo @ 1:15PM. Fuel price here was $1.69 per gal. They were out of diesel, but they had gasoline.

Over to the fuel dock @ 11:40AM. Refueled FWD tank 45.6 gal. @ $1.69 per gal. Off the fuel dock @ 12:10PM heading for Gig Harbor. Called Arabella's Landing in Gig Harbor for a slip assignment and got C-12. Arrived Gig Harbor, Arabella's Landing @ 4:30PM. Sunny sky and calm water all the way. What a beautiful end to a terrific cruise.